At City Lock we get tons of folks who bring in keys and remotes from Ebay and other websites to fit and program. The only problem is there’s no assurance that these items are compatible or functional. We WILL attempt to make them work, but it does not always work. There are rarely any overall savings.
So, we’ve put together this brief guide to transponder, or “chip” keys we hope will save you some time, money, and frustration.
Get the Lingo!
Definitions Chip - (n.) The RFID device that is embedded into a key. This device is uniquely matched to your vehicle. When a key with a chip is turned in a vehicle’s ignition, the vehicle must recognize the chip in order to start the engine.
Clone – (n. or v.) An electronic duplicate of a chip key. When programmed properly, its corresponding vehicle sees a clone as though it were the original.
Code Cut – (v.) To produce a key cut by technical specifications. We use very high-end CNC (Computer Numeric Control) type machines, unlike anything a car dealer is likely to have. We produce a large volume of keys this way for not only vehicles, but also for accurate master key production for multi-unit residential and office buildings, utility and gaming, high security locks, etc.
FOB - (n.) A tag. Often used to describe a decorative key tag, or a remote. Sometimes a fob and a remote are combined. Many folks also refer to it as the “clicker thing that unlocks the doors and opens the trunk.”
FOBIK - (n.) This stands for FOB-Integrated Key. The term was coined by Chrysler to describe keys with a remote built right into the head of the key.
Flip-Key – (n.) A type of fob and integrated transponder key, the key blade pivots and folds into the housing.
Key Code – (n.) A blind number used to determine the cuts to make on a new key blade.
RFID - (n.) Radio Frequency Identification
RKE - (n.) Remote Keyless Entry
Three random, yet crucial facts
The RFID chip in Audi, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth and Volkswagen keys can only be programmed to ONE car. No “refurbished” or “recycled” key is going to work on any of these makes’ models. On other makes, various chips may potentially be “recycled,” but there’s still a very real chance that it won’t work with your vehicle.
City Lock makes all transponder keys by code (see definition of “Code Cut” above). We do not just trace your old key. You get better, longer lasting keys this way, plus we supply you the key code, in case you ever lose all your keys. This code is useful when replacing lost keys.
What applies to one year/make/model has nothing to do with another year/make/model. Each manufacturer has numerous systems, various chips and totally different programming methods. We at City Lock are your experts on getting it done right.
Other FAQs and Figures About Transponder Keys and Remotes Q: I saw keys online for cheap, and directions say I can have someone local “just cut it and program for a few bucks.” Can you do that?
A: Often it will cost less if you just buy the key and remote directly from us. Plus, if we sell and program these items for you, we can guarantee they will work. If you already bought some, bring them, along with the vehicle and all the existing keys. We WILL help you.
Q: Can’t you just make a basic copy of the key to my car without the chip?
A: Sure. But if your key has/had a chip in it, a key without a chip is not going to start the engine. You’ll be able to use it to unlock the doors and/or trunk, but that’s it. This is a good choice for a “hide-a-key” spare, though!
Q: Do I have to go to the dealer to do this?
A: Nope. We have the technology and skill required to do the job right, and usually at a better price than the dealer!
Q: Can the lumber store or hardware store do this?
A. Some such stores will cut the key, find that it won’t work without the chip, and send you to us. It is better to bring a project like this to a qualified locksmith.
Q. My keys do not work well anymore. I had new ones made, but they didn’t work either. Do I need new locks/a new ignition?
A. Probably NOT. Copies of a bad key will work as poorly or WORSE. They can even jam up the lock mechanism, which can get you stuck. We recreate an original key on our special CNC machines, to produce a key that is original to specification. Clients are always amazed at how great everything works after we do this.
We hope this helps demystify some of the technology we use to get from A to B. Please don’t hesitate to call Jeff at City Lock, 303-444-4407, or email info@citylockusa.com if you have any other burning questions for the locksmith!
Q: My door knob often “sticks,” or feels like it’s locked, even when I know the door is unlocked. What causes this and how can it be fixed?
Let us examine the symptoms, explain the cause, and supply simple do-it-yourself solutions that will save you an unnecessary visit from a professional locksmith.
In most office and industrial settings, steel and wood doors are set into a steel frame. Some of these frames are narrow, with a pre-baked on finish, which has made them vastly more popular than industrial ready-to-paint heavy-duty frames that once were the standard. Often, the door is intended to have silencers but they were either never installed, or wore away over time. If the door should have silencers, you will notice three small holes along the door frame. Such door silencers perform two jobs:
First, as their name implies, they muffle the closing of a door by preventing the surface of the door from directly hitting the obvious contact point of the door frame, called the stop. This function is practically a necessity in office settings, but it makes for a much less dramatic effect when exiting an argument. :)
Second, and more importantly, the silencer provides a “filler” to make the door align with the frame at just the right point for the lock to work correctly. The door knob or lever has a latch that protrudes from the edge of the door. Imagine a line down the center of the door edge, and a similar line on the door frame, centered vertically between the two screws that hold the strike plate to the jamb. These two lines must be almost exactly aligned when door is closed for the latch to properly engage. The vertical center line on the frame is generally measured from the silencer, not the stop!
Where it all goes wrong:
If you look at a latch from a keyed lock, you will notice a large beveled part, and a narrow blunt piece. The blunt piece is called the deadlatch trigger. When the door is closed, the trigger stays retracted (which prevents “credit card entry”) and only the larger beveled piece of the latch enters the strike plate cavity on the door frame. Should the door close in too far, the deadlatch trigger may drop into the strike plate cavity with the beveled latch causing the door to jam or stick.
Fixing the Problem on Commercial Doors:
I recommend getting replacement silencers or, as a very good substitute, pick up an assortment of cork in different thicknesses, 3/16”, 1/4” and 5/16”. Glue the cork piece in the thickness that fits best to three spots along the frame: top and bottom and middle. Use an adhesive such as Household Goop (TM) to secure the cork silencers to the frame.
Residential Doors suffer a similar symptom, but for a host of different causes. We will address this issue soon!
We hope this saves you some money and aggravation! If you have any questions about locks, door issues, or other such troublesome devices, please don’t hesitate to email us at info@citylockusa.com, or call us at 303-444-4407.
